I remember the first time I drove across the Canadian border into Alaska, with visions of life on the Last Frontier flooding my brain. The sun shone, and the temperature was a scorching 80 degrees, a far cry from the frozen land I expected.
A huge “Welcome to Alaska” monument stood on the border separating Canada’s Yukon at Beaver Creek from Alaska on the Alaska Highway. I stopped the truck, got out and gave it a look. Technically, not a thing was different from the ground I was standing on now versus that of the land across which I just drove. But psychologically, it meant all the difference in the world. I would have years to explore the rest of Alaska on foot, dog sled and skis, but on this fine July morning, I had the open road.
Seeing what Alaska has to offer behind the wheel of an automobile or RV is an unforgettable experience. Alaska is a huge state, so driving offers a chance to see more in less time from the comfort of a car or RV. This doesn’t mean you’ll be cruising along at a steady 65 mph. On the contrary, Alaska’s roads require thoughtful, planned travel. Some roads are little more than gravel paths over mountain passes. Some are wide, four-lane affairs with lots of amenities along the way. And most are something in between, well tended but modest.
“I would encourage people that besides going to the popular places like the Kenai Peninsula, that they also check out some of the more off-the-beaten-path roads,” said Kris Graef, editor of The Milepost, which for more than 50 years has offered travelers an annually updated, mile-by-mile guide to the entire Alaska road system. “There are so many other places, like the Elliott Highway, the Steese, even the Edgerton Highway.”
ALASKA HIGHWAY
But for many, there’s only the highway: The Alaska Highway, once known simply as “The Alcan”. The Alaska Highway is the main corridor between the outside world and the 49th state, and driving it is an adventure in itself. Most of the road’s 1,520 miles actually are in Canada, beginning in Dawson Creek, BC, and ending in Fairbanks, Alaska.
The Alaska Highway celebrated its 60-year anniversary in 2002. It has come a long way from the muddy trail built to move troops and supplies during World War II.
“I remember a lot of mud, an enormous amount of mud, especially around the little settlements we would come to,” said Jill Shepherd, who moved from California to Alaska with her family in 1951, hauling a 35-foot trailer behind their 1949 Studebaker pickup. “There were some places to stop and get gas, and everyone was very hospitable no matter how small (the community) was. The truckers helped you, too. Everyone watched out for each other.”
Today, the road is paved, but it’s not uncommon for improvement projects to slow you down. Take the time to look for wildlife, including bears, moose, caribou and even the occasional wolf, if you’re really lucky.
Amenities on the Alaska Highway vary greatly depending on where you are, so having a spare tire and some snacks in the car can’t hurt. But for the most part, you’ll never be more than 50 miles from the nearest service station, and in the summer, plenty of other explorers travel the road.
RICHARDSON HIGHWAY
The 366-mile Richardson Highway runs from Valdez to Fairbanks and is an incredibly scenic road trip for those willing to take it slow. The Chugach Mountains and the Alaska Range will keep you company along the way, as will the 800-mile Trans Alaska Pipeline, which serves as a steely silver companion along the drive.
The Richardson is Alaska’s oldest road. It started out as a sled dog trail in 1898 from Valdez to Eagle. By 1902, it led to Fairbanks, and in 1910 was upgraded into a bona fide wagon trail by a man by the name of Richardson. The name has stuck ever since.
Thompson Pass, just outside of Valdez is a breathtaking spot, with open mountain vistas at an elevation of 2,678 feet. Thompson Pass is the site of some of the deepest snowfalls Alaska has ever encountered: In the winter of 1952-53, for example, the area was buried in 81-plus feet of snow.
The Klutina and Gulkana rivers also are popular roadside attractions, and during the
summer are rich with wild Alaska salmon. Fishing guides and charter boat operators can help arrange a fishing expedition. Check at the Delta Junction Visitor Center for more information.
South of the crossroads town of Glennallen (the Glenn Highway intersects the Richardson here, about 120 miles north of Valdez), the Wrangell Mountains tower over miles of rolling hills. View points are scattered along the highway.
DALTON HIGHWAY
The Dalton Highway is the road to take if you simply want to drive as far north as possible. From its starting point at the Elliott Highway, it continues for more than 400 miles until nearly reaching the shores of the Arctic Ocean in Deadhorse after crossing the Arctic Circle.
Deadhorse is the village that serves the North Slope oil field, with several hotels, a store and gas station. The community is a superlative of sorts: it is as far
north as you can go on Alaska’s primary road system, and it is worth exploring, specially if your goal is to dip your toe in the Arctic Ocean.
The Dalton Highway begins 85 miles north of Fairbanks and is perhaps one of the roughest roads in Alaska. It was constructed in the mid-1970s to haul freight to and from construction camps and workers building the 800-mile long trans-Alaska oil
pipeline that stretches from Prudhoe Bay in the north all the way to the ice-free port of Valdez in Prince William Sound. The road offers relatively little in the way of modern conveniences. The washboards are many, the grades can be steep (as much as 10 and 12 percent in some places) and the big rigs delivering to Prudhoe Bay along the “haul road,” as it’s called by the locals, can make for uncomfortable traveling companions.
Not all car and RV rental companies allow their vehicles on the Dalton, so check ahead of time and be prepared for this road trip. Carry two spare tires, a jack, tool kit, emergency flares, extra gasoline, oil, wiper fluid and a first aid kit. Bring drinking water and plenty of ready-to-eat-food, and all of your camping gear. A CB radio is also not a bad idea (monitor channel 19). Travel services are non existent. The 244-mile stretch north of Coldfoot is the longest service-free stretch of highway in North America.
So, why go to all this bother, you may ask?
Consider the scenery, which includes views of the mighty Yukon River, Atigun Pass (at the crest of the Continental Divide), the caribou of the north slope tundra, 375-million year-old limestone-filled Sukakpak Mountain (elevation 4,459 feet at Mile 203.5) and any number of sweeping mountain vistas opening into the Brooks Range, Gates of the Arctic National Park or Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Another trip highlight is crossing the Arctic Circle just past mile 115.
Several tour companies offer a guided Dalton Highway/Arctic Ocean experience.
MAIN ROADS
The Glenn, Parks and Seward highways are three of Alaska’s most-traveled roads because they connect most Alaska residents. All of these roads have plenty of services, but that does not deter from the wild scenery.
The Glenn and Parks travel through Interior Alaska, while the Seward Highway follows the coastal edges of Turn again Armin Southcentral Alaska. All of them are road trips worth savoring.
“Another thing that I tell people is to slow down and really see Alaska,” Graef, of The Milepost, said. “I think that it would be really nice for people to have shorter distances on their itineraries. Yes, you can get from Tok to Anchorage in one day, but if you do that you miss so much.”
On the 362-mile Parks Highway, look for stunning views of Mount McKinley, with strategically placed pull-offs for viewing North America’s tallest peak. On sunny, clear days the mountain seems to take up the entire sky.
The Parks travels through some quintessential Alaska communities along its way, too. To experience Alaska’s small-town flavor, head to Talkeetna (off the Talkeetna Spur Road at Mile 99). Clapboard buildings, a railroad stop and a small local runway for the many commuter bush planes carrying climbers to Mt.McKinley’s base camp feature prominently downtown. Back on the Parks, look for the towns of Cantwell and Healy and the main park entrance to Denali National Park (at mile 237), where numerous rafting, flightseeing and tour opportunities are right off the highway.
You’ll also be traveling through Denali State Park territory, which sits adjacent to the sprawling national park. There are a number of scenic hiking and picnicking destinations along the way, as well as RV-equipped campgrounds, near this park. At Mile 135, there is a particularly beautiful stopping point within the park for views of McKinley. The park’s maintenance status is in transition, so check with the Alaska Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation before you go
.
Branching off the Parks Highway near the towns of Wasilla and Palmer in the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, is the Glenn Highway. A section of the Glenn was named a National Scenic Byway in June 2002. As you drive its 328 miles, it will be easy to understand why: The road offers spectacular mountain vistas dotted with Dall sheep among the craggy peaks. At one point along the road, you can actually pay a small fee to walk on Matanuska Glacier (Glacier Park, at Mile 102, 888-253-4980). Further down the road is an awesome view of Gunsight Mountain, a must-have photo for your album. And if you have time, turn off at Mile 160 for a side trip to Lake Louise State Recreation Area.
The spectacular Wrangell Mountains in the nation’s largest national park, Wrangell- St.Elias, begin to come into view on the Glenn, but a short drive south on the Richardson reveals their stunning repose.
The Seward Highway, which travels 127 miles from Anchorage to Seward, has been officially cited as an All-American Road, a recognition by the National Scenic Byways program that goes to a few and select group of national highways (for moreon Alaska’s Scenic Byways, see our accompanying story on the Scenic Byways program). The Seward Highway has it all — spectacular views of Turnagain Arm, scenic rest stops for beluga whale and Dall sheep watching, parking areas for access to some premier hiking trails in Chugach National Forest and countless camping, lodging and dining opportunities.
For those who have very little time to spend in Alaska, the Seward Highway is a viable destination unto itself. This is the best road from which to see a huge cross-section of Alaska’s topography — from fireweed-covered hillsides to frozen-in-time glaciers, from serene lakes to fast-flowing rivers and streams.
OTHER OPTIONS
Finally, if you’re interested in a “short” drive, consider a one- or two-day jaunt along some of Alaska’s less-traveled roads. The ELLIOTT HIGHWAY covers 152 miles from just north of Fairbanks to the town of Manley and Manley Hot Springs in the state’s Interior. Look for such attractions as Minto Lakes and the hot springs in Manley, an attraction among those seeking pure solitude. Thereis also the Arctic Circle Trading Post, at Mile 49 (907-474-4565), which is worth a look. The shop offers an official Arctic Circle registry, in which you can list your name and receive a souvenir certificate of arrival to the far north.
There are several campgrounds and a few places to resupply along the way. In general, though, expect the mostly gravel road to be lightly traveled. When you get to Manley Hot Springs, check in at the Manley Roadhouse (Mile 152) for accommodations and details about soaking in the hot springs. The etiquette goes something like this: The hot springs are on private property, but visitors are welcome to use them by asking at the road house for an assigned time during which they can soak. Remember, this is a small town. Formalities, such as appointments, are foreign but good manners, such as asking politely, are expected.
Another northern road worthy of exploration is the STEESE HIGHWAY, a 162-mile-long road heading from Fairbanks to Circle. Most of the road is gravel, and conditions can vary with the weather. But the road is worthy of exploration because of its unobstructed views and access to summer and winter play areas. The Chena River and Chatanika River recreation areas offer summertime amusement for visitors and locals alike, and in the winter, there is access to the White Mountains National Recreation Area, which offers miles of groomed snow surface for skiers, snowmachiners and dog mushers. A relaxing end to this drive comes a few miles from the small mining community of Central. Circle Hot Springs features a Victorian-era hotel with restaurant and access to a steamy hot springs pool.
Further south is the equally stunning but sometimes less-maintained DENALI HIGHWAY, which connects the communities of Cantwell, on the Parks Highway, and Paxson, on the Richardson Highway. All but 20 miles of the 134-mile road is gravel, and depending upon the weather, the road can become washed out and slick. There are a few designated camping areas and some comfortable lodges to stay at, but in general, be prepared for a rustic trip with stunning scenery. Near the Richardson Highway end of the Denali Highway, Tangle Lakes is a particularly popular area with grayling fishing, canoeing and outstanding bird-watching.
Before you go, be sure to check the state’s Department of Transportation roads hotline for the Denali Highway’s current maintenance status.
ROAD RULES:
Be road-friendly. To make the driving experience more enjoyable for you and your fellow travelers, here are a few rules of the road to keep in mind while exploring Alaska:
1. Drive at the posted speed limit or within safe road conditions, and check your rear- view mirror often. On many roads in Alaska, it is required that you pull off to let five or more vehicles behind you pass. If you want to be really nice, pull off when you see three or more.
2. Always drive with your headlights on. Even in the summer, when the sun stays above the horizon nearly all night, those headlights can be helpful. Oncoming traffic is more likely to see you, especially in rainy weather.
3. Park only at waysides or other designated parking areas. Don’t assume a pull-off is a good place to camp; you may just be blocking access to someone’s remote cabin.
4. Keep Alaska beautiful. Save RV waste for dumping stations and trash for your stops in town. Not only is litter unsightly, but animals who munch on it can become sick or die.
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